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Time in the Northern Territory
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Nhulinbuy didgeridoo beach
Deserted beach at Nhulinbuy, where the Gulf of Carpentaria meets the Arafura Sea

From Cairns, Barry flew to Gove, which is located in N.E. Arnhemland. This region of Australia's Northern Territory is the traditional homeland of the didgeridoo, better know around these parts as yidaki (pronounced Yeerdahkee, with a slight retroflex on the r.) The indigenous people who live here are called Yolngu, a term representing many Aboriginal clans in the Northern Territory.
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This area is also home to the Stringybark tree, a hearty species of eucalyptus which is the traditional wood for yidaki.

Stringybark didgeridoo tree

Milkay at footy A well known yidaki crafter, Milkay Munnungurr, scores one for his mob in a football game against a team from the bauxite mine at Nhulinbuy.
     

Yolngu boys didgeridooEvery day after school, these boys would scutter to the Buku Larrngay art center to practice yidaki. After a bit of mucking about, they would play yidaki one at a time while singing traditional songs. Even at this age, they are awesome yidaki players.
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Barry's new mate, Henning Gerlt, had been recording the boys for 2 weeks. They love the attention, and understand the popularity of the yidaki among balanda (non-Aboriginal people), especially since many of them are the sons of band members from the world famous music group Yothu Yindi.

Yolngu playing didgeridoos
Henning and the boys
. . . and over to Yirrkala
Djalu Gurruwiwi and Barry Martin

Barry and legendary yidaki crafter, Djalu Gurruwiwi. Djalu came to visit Barry his first day in Yirrkala, even though the stalwart Galpu Aboriginal man wasn't feeling well.
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The next day, Barry and Henning spent the afternoon with Djalu and his lovely wife, Dhopia, at their home in Skee Beach.

A drive down to the Central Desert
On the lonely but stunningly beautiful 1,500km drive from Darwin to Alice Springs, you turn off the dusty highway just south of Tennant Creek to see the "Devil's Marbles". These large boulders appear strewn about and often stacked one atop the other rather precariously.

Devil's MarblesAnd so it was on to Alice Springs and a 2 day trip to Uluru (Ayer's Rock). This enormous monolith is located near the geographical center of Australia, rising straight up out of thousands of miles of flat desert scrub. You see and feel its sacredness. And while you are allowed to climb it, the local Aboriginal people try to dissuade you with posted signs at the entrance. They tell you that it should only be climbed by initiated clanspeople for sacred ceremonies. Naturally, Barry chose not to climb.
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If you're even thinking about visiting Australia, Barry strongly encourages it, especially if you play didgeridoo and want to learn about the instrument's indigenous heritage. To give you some inspiration, here's the last photo he took before coming home to California...

Uluru sunset

 

Uluru climb
Uluru climbing face
(yes, the white dot
on the rock is a person)
     
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